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Starting the game with a good break is extremely important. Ideally, a good break is one in which the balls scatter and none are left touching another. Initially, one would expect to use a heavy weighted cue for the break. Theoretically, that would make sense, to get the most power for your break. First, one must understand the weights of different cue sticks. The average weight would be 19 oz. Thus making a light cue 18 oz and a heavy cue 20 oz. or more. Past experience has shown me that it really comes down to personal preference. However, many argue that it is all about physics, so let’s take a look at that.

Break cue weight should be based on simple physics. The speed of the cue ball is what matters when breaking. A simple equation to remember is mass times velocity. The mass is referring to the object being propelled. In this case, it would be the cue ball, which weighs 6 oz. The velocity is the way in which we propel the cue. So what we need to be concerned with is how fast we can propel the cue ball with the most control, not so much the power behind it.

Now that we’ve covered those aspects of Pool Billiards, let’s turn to some of the other factors that need to be considered.

A heavy cue will result in more force creating more momentum. However, a light cue will allow you more acceleration. After taking all this into consideration, they both seem to have their advantages, which once again, leaves it to personal preference. The force behind your shot will not only be determined by the weight of the cue, but by the players’ style and positioning. Regardless of the weight being used, the power comes more from a solid contact on the cue and proper grip and stance.

It would be suggested not to assume the break need to be made with one or the other. Try them both, with slight alterations in your stance and positioning. You will find which is most comfortable and effective. The more you experiment, the more proficient your break will become, whether it’s based on the laws of physics or personal preference. When learning new techniques, always remember to master the basics first. Find your comfortable position and grip when breaking and master that approach before attempting to become a power breaker.

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By Anders Eriksson, now offering Unlimited Reseller Hosting from $5/month

The most important part of playing a good game is playing on a good table. The main table surface should be made from slate. There are different grades of tables which are reflective in their final price. On the high end of the scale, the table will be made using 7/8 inch to 1 inch thick slate. The lower scaled tables will use 3/4 inch slate. In either case, the slate will extend past the playing surface to the ends of the table, thus allowing extra support for the rails. The better tables will also have a wood backing for the surface cloth to be attached. Some lower-end tables don’t have the wood backing, and the cloth is attached with a spray adhesive, which can cause puckering or peeling especially if moisture and humidity are prevalent. In older tables horizontal holes were drilled in the slate edges and filled with molten lead; screws running through the vertical edge of the rail were tightened into the lead-lined hole. In contrast, rails are attached to modern tables by inserting a bolt vertically through a hole in the slate and tightening it into the bottom of the rail, pulling the rail and slate together snugly.

There are many choices to be made when making a custom table. The thickness of your slate, the color of the cloth for the playing surface, material used for rails and pockets. Most people who own a pool table in their homes consider it a piece of furniture as well as a for entertainment, so be sure to get what you want and what fits into your lifestyle. After deciding your slate, you will need to choose a color for the table. Often there are more than 30 choices. Surfaces are a lot like carpeting, coming in various weights. The common preferred weight is from 20 to 22 ounces. Be sure that it is a good nylon-wool blend. The cloth used to cover the slate and the rails is designed specifically for pool tables. Although it is often referred to as felt (a fabric formed by compressing fibers rather than weaving), it is actually a woven fabric with a nap (exposed, short, fuzzy fiber ends) on one surface.

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Your rails and pockets are all personal choices as far as coloring and materials. You can go plain to keep the cost down, or have carved rails with leather pockets, creating an ornate piece of furniture. It’s really all up to you. Your playing surface and felt covering should be the main concern for quality. Diamond- or circular-shaped sights embedded in the rail tops are usually made of mother of pearl, abalone shell, or plastic. Pocket irons may be made of cast iron, zinc alloy, aluminum, rubber, or high-impact styrene plastic. Traditionally, pocket liners are made of leather (solid or net), but plastic or rubber is also used.

A table made well will last you years and bring much pleasure. For those of you wondering the cost, an inexpensive table might have particle board components that do not hold screws or staples as well as solid wood. Tables vary widely in quality and cost; a casual player who wants a table for a few years of personal recreation can get one for around $600. So-called popularly priced tables, which are well-built, durable, and attractive, may cost $1,600-$3,000. Remember, your primary aim should be for that of stability and durability.

It never hurts to be well-informed with the latest on Pool Billiards. Compare what you’ve learned here to future articles so that you can stay alert to changes in the area of Pool Billiards.

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By Anders Eriksson, who just joined this Free Website Traffic generation site

Have you ever wondered what exactly is up with Pool Billiards? This informative report can give you an insight into everything you’ve ever wanted to know about Pool Billiards.

The most essential piece of equipment for the game of pool is the cue stick, or simply the cue. It is a tapered stick typically 58 inches long and ranging between 18 and 21 ounces. They are primarily made of wood, but occasionally covered with other materials such as graphite or fiberglass. The length and weight can be altered to create a custom cue for the professional player.

There are three different types of cue sticks. One type is the one piece cue. These are generally for the casual player and often stocked in pool halls. They have a uniform taper and standard length and weight. Another type is the two piece cue. This is usually divided in the middle and screwed together. The two piece cue makes for easy transport and storage in a case. The third type is also a two piece cue, but the joint is not in the middle, but further down on the butt, about 1/3 from the end.

There are different parts or pieces to a cue stick, all of which you should become familiar with. The shaft is the smaller, tapered end of the cue, and the butt is the wider, heavier end. When using a two piece cue, the pieces are attached at a joint which is made up of a screw coming from the butt that is screwed into the shaft. The joints can be made from an array of materials from plastic, wood or aluminum to bone or antlers for more expensive sticks. It serves the same purpose, to join the tow pieces together.

On the shaft, you will find the ferrule and the tip. The ferrule is the piece of white plastic immediately below the tip. It can be made of different materials. Most commonly it is plastic for the casual player and brass for the more experienced player. The tips come in a variety of sizes and shapes, and can be custom rounded to suit your needs. Tips are primarily made of leather and are available in different hardness grades.

I trust that what you’ve read so far has been informative. The following section should go a long way toward clearing up any uncertainty that may remain.

The butt of the cue is where you will find your weight. Whether you play with an 18 oz. cue or a 21 oz. cue, the weight is all in the butt. The cue butt is often the area that is most ornate. Many sticks have carvings, leather grips and various other inlaid objects that appeal to the eye. They add nothing to your game but a sense of pride when you pull out your dazzling cue and start a game.

Lastly, and often the most overlooked piece of a pool cue is the bumper. This is a round rubber piece attached to the butt. It offers protection when you place your cue down and also reduced the vibrations that travel through the cue on impact. On pricier cues, the bumper is made of leather.

Choose a cue that is comfortable to play with, not for it’s looks. You want quality, not a show piece.

Now you can understand why there’s a growing interest in Pool Billiards. When people start looking for more information about Pool Billiards, you’ll be in a position to meet their needs.

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By Anders Eriksson, who just launched this URL Shortening Service, working exactly like TinyURL.com!

When most people think of Pool Billiards, what comes to mind is usually basic information that’s not particularly interesting or beneficial. But there’s a lot more to Pool Billiards than just the basics.

As with many things, one side is stronger than the other. For most people, this hold true with their eyes, and one eye is much more dominant in seeing alignments. Normally, right-handers are right-eyed and vise versa for left. There are cases of being cross-dominant where the right-handed has a strong left eye, and there are also cases of no dominant eye at all, known as ambi-ocular. For aiming, locate your dominant eye directly over your cue. If you are cross dominant, this may call for some adjustments in your position, but be sure to be aiming when you are lined up and over your cue.

There is a quick way to test yourself. Hold your thumb up, arm extended and block out a distant object, a lamp or a vase. Don’t focus on your thumb, but on the distant object. Your dominant eye will be in line with your thumb while your non-dominant eye will be seeing past it. When you close your non-dominant eye, your thumbs should be completely blocking the object.

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Aside from aiming by use of your dominant eye, there is another way to accurately aim your shot. This other technique for aiming is by the use of your cue stick. First, you need to determine the line of path of your object ball to the pocket and point your cue stick in that direction. Next, you must consider the width of the object ball. Place the tip of your cue stick at 1/2 width from the object ball. This is your aim point. The last thing you need to do is simply point your cue stick aim at the “aim” point and stroke.

In order to shoot center pocket, pinpoint aiming is required. It feels nice to have an accurate shot rather then to make a sloppy pocket and on long shots an accurate aim becomes more of a necessity. Pinpoint accuracy requires a pinpoint aim, that is, when determining your object ball contact point do not have a general area. Make your ball contact point be like a pinpoint, not like the size of a dime. If your object ball contact point is sloppy, so will be your end result. It also takes total concentration on that pinpoint spot to not lose it, in other words, keep your eye on the object ball and not jump back and forth between the cue ball and object ball.

As you get used to aiming, the process will not be mechanical, your movement will flow naturally. When you find yourself missing for unknown reasons, go back to the basics and it is a good chance you will get out of the slump. Perfecting any aiming technique will take a lot of time, but try not to get discouraged. Explore the various techniques and see what works best for you. These are not rules set in stone, just some aiming guidelines to help develop your aiming style and technique.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson (Click on the link to learn more about me)

For those of us not blessed with a table in our home, there are many places to play pool if you are interested in learning the game or are already an experienced player. Many towns now have public pool halls where tables are rented out hourly. These businesses will be listed in phone books or you may find them online.

The public pool hall does seem to carry a stigma with it somewhat in comparison to that of tattoo parlors. The initial thought is of a smoky, dimly lit room with “shady” characters. That is not at all the case. There are many pool halls that are non-smoking, very clean and a pleasure to play in. You will have to seek out a few and see what environment you would like to play in. Many pool halls are now set up for the family. Some have arcades on one side, and pool tables on the other, most often connected by a place to sit and eat. You will usually have access to a bar, so choose wisely if you are bringing children along.

Most bars also have pool tables. Though there are not as many as you would find in a pool hall, it is still an opportunity to play. Most times, bar room pool tables are of lower quality. If you are looking to practice certain techniques, I would suggest not to play on a bar room table. On the other hand, if you just want a friendly game, go for it. You should know ahead of time that bar pool tables are primarily coin operated. This wouold mean once a ball enters a pocket, it cannot be retrieved. The only ball you will have continuous access to will be the cue ball.

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Many towns and cities also have pool and billiard leagues available for both men and women. It’s best to ask around and get to know the various places in which you can play. Most leagues will have tournament style play as well as some trick shooting competitions. Even if you are not looking to join a league, it is still a great place to go watch and learn from other players.

Finally, if you’ve had a long week and just don’t have the energy, turn to technology! There are endless web sites that offer virtual pool games. This is really a great way to learn your angles and practice rail shots. Most sites will not charge you to play, and offer one, two and three player games. Again, this is a wonderful way of having a “virtual tutor.” Many times, software programs will have tips to offer and will explain rules as you go along. It could be a great introduction to the game if you are unsure whether you want to make the investment.

If you are the lucky owner of a pool table, you will probably progress at a much faster rate that other beginners. The more you play, the better you get, and since you will have more access to a table by owning one, your game will improve much quicker than the player playing on the outside.

Of course, it’s impossible to put everything about Pool Billiards into just one article. But you can’t deny that you’ve just added to your understanding about Pool Billiards, and that’s time well spent.

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The following paragraphs summarize the work of Pool Billiards experts who are completely familiar with all the aspects of Pool Billiards. Heed their advice to avoid any Pool Billiards surprises.

The most important technique learned and the one that should be mastered first is the grip. The casual player has a different grip than that of a professional player, but in either case, if your game is to progress, you must master your grip. It should be comfortable, relaxed, and remain fairly consistent throughout the range of the stroke. A relaxed grip is usually best since too tight of a grip can tense up muscles in the arm that can cause your stroke to perform erratically. Likewise, too loose and you could lose control.

One way is to play with an all finger grip where all five fingers remain in constant contact with the butt all the way through the stroke and never alter except for perhaps a slight squeeze on contact with the cue ball. This method requires the cue arm to be perfectly vertical at address of the cue ball or the cue will lift on the backswing causing a scooping motion. This is the most common way to grip a cue stick among beginners and casual players, and allows the most control. Do not put your thumb on top of the cue, because this will lock up your wrist, and it’s very important for your wrist to stay relaxed.

Most pros use a different grip, only the thumb and first finger remain constant , the others flex open on the backstroke and close on the forward stroke. This has the effect of tracking the cue and keeping it on line, also greatly increasing cue ball control and cue power. On the final backswing the little finger practically comes off the cue altogether, this allows the cue to remain flat , on the follow through the fingers all close and return to the original position.

No matter what style grip you use, it is important to keep your grip loose and relaxed. This will allow you to follow through on your stroke. A proper grip allows you control and accurate shots. Bad grips will limit your potential for improvement. At all times, your cue should feel well balanced in your hand. For normal shots, your hand should be in the center of the wrap. For shots that require more “touch” and accuracy, try moving your hand forward on the wrap, shortening the length between your bridge hand and the ferrule. For shots that require more power, try moving your hand back on the wrap, lengthening the distance between your bridge hand and the ferrule. Always remember to stay down and follow through on your shots.

Those of you not familiar with the latest on Pool Billiards now have at least a basic understanding. But there’s more to come.

The key to determine your grip is to find the balance point of the cue. To find the balance point, take your index finger and balance the cue stick on it so that it teeters on its own. Once it is balanced, take a mental note of the point on the cue stick where your finger was holding it and use this as your balance point or reference point. In general, but depending on how tall you are, you should grip the cue at least six inches back from the balance point towards butt end of the cue stick. Shorter players should place their grip hand slightly closer to the balance point we found earlier, while taller players should put their gripping hand a greater distance away from the balance point. This process will eliminate the chance of developing a bad grip and will start your beginners’ career off on the right foot.

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Aside from protecting your cue from humidity, the other caution you must take is caring for your cue tip. Since the tip is active in every one of your shots, it is of utmost importance to have a good tip at all times. The cue tip is also very important to keep clean. It’s cleanliness will affect backspin, accuracy, touch, smoothness of stroke, and precision of each and every shot that you take. When the pool cue is not in use, it should be maintained by by protecting the cue’s tip from any foreign dings, scrapes, gouges, or anything else that may otherwise be of potential danger. Finally, you must remember that the tip itself should always be covered when not in play.

The spin/speed ratio on the cue ball depends primarily on the actual tip-ball contact point. You seldom want to hit the ball right in the middle, you don’t want to miscue, and you want to have precise control of the spin. Therefore, a rounded tip is better than a flat tip. You shape the tip with a tip scuffer, a file, a piece of 400-600 sandpaper, and other similar abrasive tools. Most players like their tips rounded.

In the case of well-rounded tips, miscues occur when the tip slides on the surface of the ball. Along with other reasons, this happens when the tip doesn’t hold chalk. The tip doesn’t hold chalk when it is packed down from hitting the cue ball and the surface is slick. If you tap the tip to give the surface some texture, it will hold the chalk better. You can buy special tools to tap the tip, or you can use a rasp, or a coarse file, or coarse sandpaper glued to a wood backing can be rolled over the tip surface. Scuffing with sandpaper also works, but it wears the tip away too fast. For maximal tip life, tap more, scuff less.

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Tips can also mushroom, meaning that the leather bulges at the sides so that the tip is wider than the ferrule. Most pool players prefer to remove this bulge. The best way is to use a lathe, but there are other methods too. Fine sandpaper (600 grit or finer) can be used, but some care should be taken not to scratch the ferrule. Cutting tools designed especially for this purpose are available, and pocket knives and razor blades can also be used, but utmost care should be taken to avoid ferrule damage. After the mushroom bulge has been removed, the edge of the tip can be polished by wetting the sides and rubbing the leather edge firmly against the cloth on the top of a cushion or against a leather pad.

It is also important to maintain not only the tip, but also the ferrule. Over time, chalk, dirt, and other foriegn substances can build up on the ferrule and will embed on your pool cue like a tar substance. Cleaning the ferrule and tip of your pool cue regularly, by simply wiping it down (ensuring that you fully dry it off) can help to prevent this buildup from occuring. This will make for a smoother, cleaner, and better playing shaft, which can only serve to improve your game, and extend the pool cue’s life span.

There’s a lot to understand about Pool Billiards. We were able to provide you with some of the facts above, but there is still plenty more to write about in subsequent articles.