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In general, it is difficult to tell if you would like a cue stick just by reading about it. Even the terms that different people use to describe these characteristics (hard, soft, harsh, stiff, forgiving, well-balanced, etc.) are subjective and difficult to quantify. Some of the important things can be quantified (length, weight, balance point, shaft taper, shaft diameter, squirt), but they’re not the whole story. And if you are a beginner, or seriously working on your game for the first time, you can expect your own preferences to change as your game matures.

As a beginning billiards player, most of you might only be using cue sticks provided by the billiards place where you play. However, if you want to really improve your game you need to have your own cue so you won’t have the problem of having to adjust to the length of the cue or the weight of the cue or the diameter of the cue tip. It is important to take note (while you still don’t have a cue stick) the type of cue that you feel most comfortable with. Experiment with different cue sticks. Examine the weight, the length and the diameter of the tip. After you’ve decided on what is most comfortable to you then you are ready to buy one.

Knowledge can give you a real advantage. To make sure you’re fully informed about Pool Billiards, keep reading.

There are some points to consider when shopping for your cue. First, make sure that the cue stick is straight and not crooked. Although most of the production cues are not crooked, it’s always good to check just in case. You can do this by rolling the cue stick on a flat surface, if it is crooked then you will notice it right away. Another way of looking at the stick is to look at the butt end of the cue while pointing the other end downwards then roll it a few times and you should be able to notice if it is crooked or not. Second, the weight of the cue stick. Typically, a cue stick weighs between 18 to 21 ounzes. Find out what weight is comfortable for you and stick with it. Third, the length of the cue stick should be dependent the length of your arm. Longer arms, longer stick. The length of production cues typically starts at 57 inches.

If you would like to customize it a bit, getting a two-part cue will add about $30 to your price. You can go further and add on leather grips and some decorations. Rule of thumb is that if you pay more than $100 for a cue stick, you are paying for brand and ornamentation, not so much quality. A good tip is probably more important than the cue. Shun a cue that’s more than two parts, has a screw-on tip, is painted in festive colors, or is made in Taiwan. Made in Japan is OK, the Adam line, made there, is one of the best. Get the best tips you can, the return on the money you spend is greater there than anywhere else. Seek good construction over great looks. Be sure to compare the cue sticks before choosing the one that catches your eye. Feel comfortable with the weight and the length. You will be using this stick for years to come, so be sure your investment is just right for your style of playing.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit this new site for my swedish customers: Billigt Webbhotell – from SEK 10:- per month!

First, let’s start by explaining what a mechanical bridge is. Many times there are shots that cannot be reached no matter how much you lean across the table! That’s where a bridge comes in handy. The mechanical bridge, also called rake, crutch or rest, is an accessory of the billiard sports table and consists of a stick with a bridge head mounted at its end to support the shaft of the cue stick replacing the hand bridge during shots difficult to reach. The stick or handle of the mechanical bridge is very similar in shape to the cue stick. The bridge head has notches or grooves, usually at various heights, in which the cue shaft can rest. The contour of the bridge head should be smooth in order not to mar the cue shaft or rip the threads of the table-cloth when being used.

Many amateurs are hesitant to use the bridge mainly because they don’t know the proper way to do so. Going through the following steps will take away that worry and help your game in the long run. Taking care not to hit any surrounding balls, carefully place the bridge on the table approximately 5 inches away from the cue ball. Now place the cue in the slot (usually 3 or 4 available) that will allow you to strike the cue ball as level as possible and at the location you desire.

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Once you have found the slot you would like to use, place the bridge flat on the table if you can and hold it down with one hand. Now, grasp your cue toward the end, leaving the tip to be supported by the bridge. Strike the cue ball with a straight, even stroke and immediately lift the bridge off the table. You have now completed a successful bridge shot.
As with the rest of the game, this will take some time to get used to. Parctice different shots and angels and become comfortable using the bridge. It will be an important part of your game as you develop.

Many aficionados and most professionals employ the bridge whenever the intended shot so requires. Some players, especially current or former snooker players, use a screw-on cue butt extension instead of or in addition to the mechanical bridge. It is suggested that once you have the basic game down pat, that you begin to experiment with additional equipment such as this. The sooner you become familiar with it, the more proficient you will become and you will progress as a player. Practice with the mechanical bridge until you feel you are comfortable enough to apply it to your every-day game playing. You will learn that the time spent on practicing with the techniques and angles will not have been time wasted, but will aid your game immensely.

Of course, it’s impossible to put everything about Pool Billiards into just one article. But you can’t deny that you’ve just added to your understanding about Pool Billiards, and that’s time well spent.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, who just launched this great product..
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Would you like to find out what those-in-the-know have to say about Pool Billiards? The information in the article below comes straight from well-informed experts with special knowledge about Pool Billiards.

Obviously, one of the major pieces of equipment needed to play pool is the set of balls. Without them, there would be no game! The balls are designed specifically for the game and coincide with the physics involved in overall play. As you read, you will find out how the balls are made, what materials are used, regulation weights and more. You will soon find that it is not just an ordinary orb placed on the table, and that much design and engineering is involved.

The earliest balls were made of wood clay. These were used for years until the use of ivory came into play. Ivory balls were short lived. By the 1800′s, millions of elephants were being slaughtered to obtain the ivory used to make the balls as well as many other items. Only eight balls could be made from one elephant! Seeing this as unfit, a new material was sought after.

You can see that there’s practical value in learning more about Pool Billiards. Can you think of ways to apply what’s been covered so far?

A composition material was then invented, called cellulose nitrate. It was later commercially branded Celluloid, also known as the first industrial plastic to be marketed. Thought to be a great invention for making the balls, the material was soon not accepted as it caused the balls to occasionally explode, making these plastic billiard balls impractical. The invention of this material served many other useful purposes as the use of plastic became more accepted, but as for the pool game, it was unacceptable.

Other compounds were experimented with until the perfect material had been found. Today’s balls are cast from phenolic resin. This material is resistant to chipping and cracking and has become an industry standard. It is the only ball material used today in play by professionals. There are lower grade balls made of polyester, but use of these result in shorter ball and cloth life.

The balls we commonly see today are made of resin and are regulated by weight and color. The standard ball has a weight of 5.5 to 6 oz. with the cue ball at a standard 6 oz. The balls are colored and grouped into solids and stripes and numbered accordingly. Custom balls are available offering an assortment of colors and markings and are often used in trick shooting to add visual appeal.

Take time to consider the points presented above. What you learn may help you overcome your hesitation to take action.

About the Author
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A jump shot refers to making the cue ball come off the table surface before making contact with another object ball. By placing extreme spin on the ball and elevating the butt of the cue while shooting, you can make the cue ball jump. Beginners often shoot a jump shot by hitting the cue ball very low and miscuing. The most important factor in making a jump shot is the kind of cloth on the table. If it is very high quality, thin cloth, jumping will be very difficult. If it is thicker or maybe rubber-backed, jumping will be fairly easy. It’s best to practice your jump shots with simple straight ahead shots until you get the feel for the table.

On a jump shot, your cue ball jumps at an angle equal to the angle at which it is struck. Another words the higher your cue stick the higher the jump angle. The harder you shoot, the longer the jump. The jump stroke must be shot with a very loose back arm grip. This allows the cue stick to get out of the way of the ball so you don’t “trap” the ball as it’s trying the jump. It is a foul if a player strikes the cue ball below center (“digs under” it) and intentionally causes it to rise off the bed of the table in an effort to clear an obstructing ball. Such jumping action may occasionally occur accidentally, and such “jumps” are not to be considered fouls on their face; they may still be ruled foul strokes, if for example, the ferrule or cue shaft makes contact with the cue ball in the course of the shot.

Unless otherwise stated in rules for a specific game it is legal to cause the cue ball to rise off the bed of the table by elevating the cue stick on the shot, and forcing the cue ball to rebound from the bed of the table. Any miscue when executing a jump shot is a foul.

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Everyone like to be a big shot, and nothing makes you look cooler than executing a proper billiard and pool jump shot technique and pocketing the intended object ball that nobody thought you could get at. Though this may be the case, you should remember to consider and assess all other options and angles for shot options first. If you use the jump shot when you don’t really need to, your opponent and other spectators may regard you as a showboat and may lose existing respect for your game.
Jump shots are not easy to make, and are even harder to control. It will take you a lot of practice, but more so, a lot of patience to master your jump shot. Beginners should start with a jump shot that is not of great height. Get the technique down then try jumping a full ball. To jump a full ball from one ball away you’ll need to elevate to 85 degrees or more. The only way to become proficient at this technique is to develop your own style and perfect it.

So now you know a little bit about Pool Billiards. Even if you don’t know everything, you’ve done something worthwhile: you’ve expanded your knowledge.

About the Author
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Do you ever feel like you know just enough about Pool Billiards to be dangerous? Let’s see if we can fill in some of the gaps with the latest info from Pool Billiards experts.

After spending days upon days and dollars upon dollars for your pool table, you should know how to care for it so it will last a life time. Not maintaining the table will affect your overall game and cost you a bundle in needed repairs. Take some small and simple steps to avoid having to pay for repairs on your investment.

If you have a new table, the cloth may interact with the roll of the balls for the break in period. This is completely normal, but to speed up the break-in process, it helps by brushing the cloth as frequently as possible. The table, new or used, should be brushed before and after every game played. Be sure to always brush the cloth in the same direction and never use circular motions. The surface may be vacuumed if necessary, again, always in the same direction. To avoid exposure to humidity, spills and other hazards, it is recommended that you cover the table when not in use.

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Avoid excessive ball build up or storage in the pockets of your table. The balls will wear out the cloth around the pockets if they cannot drop freely inside. Stored balls for lengthy periods may also stretch the pockets depending on what material they are made from. If your table was made with leather used to create the pockets, ball build up will deffinitely affect the shape of the pockets over time. This may not happen so much if the material is weaved or made of mesh, but it is always a good idea not to let the balls build up regardless of the material used.

If your table has a natural wood finish, it should be dusted and cleaned frequently. Your investment may be for entertainment, but it is also a piece of furniture and a possible heirloom. Wood finishes can be restored by using a non-residue forming dusting agent, such as lemon oil. Never use a cleaner that contains ammonia as it can chemically damage the finish. Though it is possible to re-finish the wood if staining occurs, it is best to prevent that as much as possible. Taking general care of the wood on the rails will lengthen the life of the table and reduce the possible cost of repairs in the future. Considering the cost of your investment, it is wise to care for it in a way that will allow you to enjoy it for years to come.

If you have your table stored in a recreation room where food and drinks will be present, try to encourage the use of coasters. Never set a can, glass or bottle on any part of the table. The moisture will cause damage and will also leave stains. A no food or drink policy is often in place at local pool halls, and they are never allowed near tournament tables. One final thing to remember, do not sit or stand on any part of the table. Aside from possibly injuring yourself, you will affect the table leverage and the balls will not travle as they should. Always keep unnecessary weight off of the table, both during play and not.

Knowing enough about Pool Billiards to make solid, informed choices cuts down on the fear factor. If you apply what you’ve just learned about Pool Billiards, you should have nothing to worry about.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit my latest venture: GVO to claim your $1 trial membership!

In general, it is difficult to tell if you would like a cue stick just by reading about it. Even the terms that different people use to describe these characteristics (hard, soft, harsh, stiff, forgiving, well-balanced, etc.) are subjective and difficult to quantify. Some of the important things can be quantified (length, weight, balance point, shaft taper, shaft diameter, squirt), but they’re not the whole story. And if you are a beginner, or seriously working on your game for the first time, you can expect your own preferences to change as your game matures.

As a beginning billiards player, most of you might only be using cue sticks provided by the billiards place where you play. However, if you want to really improve your game you need to have your own cue so you won’t have the problem of having to adjust to the length of the cue or the weight of the cue or the diameter of the cue tip. It is important to take note (while you still don’t have a cue stick) the type of cue that you feel most comfortable with. Experiment with different cue sticks. Examine the weight, the length and the diameter of the tip. After you’ve decided on what is most comfortable to you then you are ready to buy one.

If you don’t have accurate details regarding Pool Billiards, then you might make a bad choice on the subject. Don’t let that happen: keep reading.

There are some points to consider when shopping for your cue. First, make sure that the cue stick is straight and not crooked. Although most of the production cues are not crooked, it’s always good to check just in case. You can do this by rolling the cue stick on a flat surface, if it is crooked then you will notice it right away. Another way of looking at the stick is to look at the butt end of the cue while pointing the other end downwards then roll it a few times and you should be able to notice if it is crooked or not. Second, the weight of the cue stick. Typically, a cue stick weighs between 18 to 21 ounzes. Find out what weight is comfortable for you and stick with it. Third, the length of the cue stick should be dependent the length of your arm. Longer arms, longer stick. The length of production cues typically starts at 57 inches.

If you would like to customize it a bit, getting a two-part cue will add about $30 to your price. You can go further and add on leather grips and some decorations. Rule of thumb is that if you pay more than $100 for a cue stick, you are paying for brand and ornamentation, not so much quality. A good tip is probably more important than the cue. Shun a cue that’s more than two parts, has a screw-on tip, is painted in festive colors, or is made in Taiwan. Made in Japan is OK, the Adam line, made there, is one of the best. Get the best tips you can, the return on the money you spend is greater there than anywhere else. Seek good construction over great looks. Be sure to compare the cue sticks before choosing the one that catches your eye. Feel comfortable with the weight and the length. You will be using this stick for years to come, so be sure your investment is just right for your style of playing.

When word gets around about your command of Pool Billiards facts, others who need to know about Pool Billiards will start to actively seek you out.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit my latest venture: GVO to claim your $1 trial membership!

When you’re learning about something new, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the sheer amount of relevant information available. This informative article should help you focus on the central points.

The first thing you should do is invest in a case. This will protect the cue from humidity and falls or tip damage. Moisture is the biggest cause in your cue warping. Keep your cue away from moisture and very humid places. This minimiizes the chances of your cue warping over time. Remember, however, that since wood is a natural material, there is no foolproof way to 100% guarantee you cue will not warp at all. They will all warp a little or more over time. A hard case is better than a soft case, and be sure to store your case upright. Now that it is safely stored in a protective case, remember to always wash your hands before you play and several hours after play.

Joint protectors should be considered if you are using a multi-piece cue. These will halp to prevent moisture from entering by the shaft and butt of the cue. They screw into either end and will keep the moisture out and prevent warping. If by chance your cue does get warped, a slight warp is nothing to worry too much about. Just take caution when you play your game to position the cue the same for every shot. You want the warp on the vertical plane not the horizontal. The best way to check your cue for warping is by “sighting”. Look straight down from the butt to the shaft, just as you would sight a rifle. The warp will be obvious, and you can then decide your positioning for your shots.

If you find the warp to be severe and are unable to bend it back into shape or cannot adjust your positioning, consider buying a new cue. Remember, investing in a case will save you these hassles down the road. After taking the precautions to avoid warping, turn your attention to the cue tip. The tip on your new cue may be shiney, smooth, and somewhat flat when you first get your cue. You may shape the tip to desired roundness, but many beginners just play with it the way it is. In either case, how you play and the way you stroke your cue will determine the final shape of your tip and constant shaping will wear your tip down very fast. There is an easy process for replacing tips if you find you need to do that. There are a few things you will need to have on hand before you begin. Make sure to have the new tip, a razor blade, glue, preferably SuperGlue Gel or Duro-gel, Loctite, 60-80 grip sandpaper, 400-600 grit sandpaper and some paper towels.

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To start, remove what is left of the old tip using the razor blade. Be sure not to cut into the wood. Using the 60-80 grit sandpaper, sand the top of the ferrule (white plastic piece and the end of your cue, sometimes this is a brass piece). Then sand the bottom of the new tip with the same sandpaper until it is rough. Now that the tip and surfaces are prepared, you will attach the new tip. Apply a light coat of glue to both the ferrule and the bottom of the new tip. Only a small amount is needed on both pieces. Next, carefully center the tip onto the ferrule and hold in place for about a minute. When the glue has set, carefully use the razor to remove any excess over hang so the tip is flush with the ferrule.
To finish up, wet the sides of the tip slightly and burnish using the 400-600 sandpaper. You may also use the same paper to shape the tip to your desired radius. Allow the glue to dry completely before using for play. You’re ready to go!
It is also important to keep your cue stick clean. After playing, you will notice a build-up of chalk on the tip. If you play using hand chalk, that will also be evident on the shaft. After play, it is a good idea to remember to always wipe down your stick. Any experienced billiard shooter will attest that nothing is worse and harms your shot more than a sticky cue shaft. There are several techniques that one can use to clean their pool cue shaft, ranging from a simply dry wipe-down, to and involved pool cue shaft smoothing and burnishing.

The buildup of sticky residue can accumulate over time if your pool cue shaft is not cleaned properly. You can help slow the buildup of sticky residue by always wiping the pool cue shaft down with a cotton cloth after play, as well as by doing the obvious; ensuring that you play with cleanly washed hands. You can also use a slightly damp cloth, but it is imperative that you completely and thoroughly dry the pool cue shaft immediately after wiping it clean to prevent warping.

Knowing enough about Pool Billiards to make solid, informed choices cuts down on the fear factor. If you apply what you’ve just learned about Pool Billiards, you should have nothing to worry about.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit my latest venture: GVO to claim your $1 trial membership!

Historically the umbrella term for the sport as a whole was billiards. While that familiar name is still employed variably as a generic name for all games, the word’s usage has splintered into more inclusive competing meanings among certain groups and geographic regions. For example, in the United Kingdom, billiards refers exclusively to English Billiards, while in the United States it is sometimes used to refer only to carom games and by a minority to eight-ball (being the only cue game known to many players).

In our time, the two can easily be exchanged and mean the same thing. When people refer to one, it is assumed the other is also being included. On the technical side, there is a difference. Billiards is played with smaller balls. In billiards, only three balls are used white, yellow and red and both the white and the yellow ball can act as the strikers. Billiards is basically pool without pockets. Usually the cloth on a billiards table is much faster. The object in billiards (3 cushion billiards) is to hit the object ball then go three rails and hit the other ball, or hit 3 rails and hit both object balls with the cue ball (these are called caroms).

Think about what you’ve read so far. Does it reinforce what you already know about Pool Billiards? Or was there something completely new? What about the remaining paragraphs?

Most of us are familiar with pool and pool tables. Some of us may be aware of the different variations of the pool game, a few being eight-ball, nine-ball and cut throat. As stated above, billiards is played on a table with no pockets. We know that pool tables are constructed with 6 pockets. The game is played with two sets of balls, each containing seven balls, with one set being solid colored and the other striped. The two sets are combined into one set and then completed by a black eight ball. This is a standard set of pool balls, and can be broken up to play different versions of the game.

Though there are vast differences between the two games, they are commonly grouped as one and refered to as cue sports. If someone says they’re going to shoot a game of billiards, we all know what they are referring to in general. It all depends on what style of the game you would like to play. Billiards is a form of pool. So perhaps in future reference, it should all be covered by using the term pool, unless you are actually playing by billiards rules and regulations.

Take time to consider the points presented above. What you learn may help you overcome your hesitation to take action.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, still having the Free Adsense Sites for instant download

We all know that a game cannot start without the break. A good break will lead to a good game. There are many factors one needs to consider when breaking the rack. Often a different cue is used specifically for breaking. It’s best not to get too anxious and try to be a power breaker from the get go. Start with a basic break until your game progresses. The most important part of your game will be your break, so be sure you are very comfortable with it. Once you find a position and stance that is comfortable and you break the balls effectively, stay with that technique.

It can be particularly difficult for a beginning pool player to break a racked set of balls. This is a good way to practice and become comfortable with breaking. Start by putting the cue ball on the head spot. (When you get better, you can position the cue ball anywhere next to or behind the head spot to make the break.) After making sure your grip is correct and you have a comfortable stance, aim the cue ball to hit the leading ball of the rack squarely in the front. Do not stop your shot when you make contact with the cue. Follow through with a smooth motion for an extra 6-18 inches. Practicing this now will help you later as you add speed and power to your break. Always try to hit the cue ball as hard as you can without your cue slipping off to one side or off the ball completely. A foul on a break is a very embarrassing way to start.

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You will find that once you begin to gain confidence in your break, you will shoot harder and perform better breaks. Ideally, a good break is one in which no balls are left touching another ball. The perfect break, when playing eight ball, would be to sink the eight ball off the break shot, thus gaining an immediate win! Though this situation arises rarely, it has been achieved and can be quite a thrill the first time it is accomplished.

The break is probably the most important shot of the game. It will set the playing field for all the shots to follow. Spend time on your breaking techniques and styles. Once you are comfortable breaking with the cue on the head spot, move the cue around to different positions. Moving the cue and striking the rack from different angles will have a different effect on the break. Many players have mastered their break so that they sink at least two balls every time they break. It will take time and patience, but this is a shot you must master if you ever want to become a decent player. Often, players place the cue ball in the same position on the table when breaking. After trial and error and many hours of practice, you will find your own “hot spot” and will have an effective break almost every time.

Now you can be a confident expert on Pool Billiards. OK, maybe not an expert. But you should have something to bring to the table next time you join a discussion on Pool Billiards.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, still having the Free Adsense Sites for instant download

English or Sidespin is an advanced technique in pool and refers to spin that is put on the cue ball. You can apply English or sidespin in a number of ways. It all comes down to aiming at the cue ball in different spots other than the straight center shot. You can hit the cue ball on the left side which is normally called LEFT English or you can hit the cue ball on the right side normally called RIGHT English. You can also apply the stop (center ball hit), draw (below center hit) or follow (above center hit) with English. English applied with draw is normally called low English while English applied with follow is called high English. The left and right English shots will cause the ball to spin to either side.

This is commonly refered to as inside or outside English. This technique is used primarily to alter the natural roll of the cue ball, thus causing it to curve to the desired side. This can be of use if you have ball interfering with a straight on shot, or if you are looking to deflect the cue ball in a different direction.

Another effect of english is what is known as “Curve” or “Swerve”. When a cue ball is hit low with a downward stroke using english, the cue ball tends to curve instead of moving in a straight line. This is a similar effect, though to a much lesser degree, to the masse shot. The direction of the curve will be the same as the direction of the spin. That means that if you have a low right english on the cue ball, it will curve to the left and back to the right. If you have a low left english on the cue ball, it will curve to the right and then back to the left.

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There is also another effect of english that is known as “throw”. When a cue ball with sidespin hits the object ball, the spin is transferred to the object ball but in the opposite direction. For example, a cue ball is hit with right english so it spins to the right or counter-clockwise… upon hitting the object ball, an opposite spin (clockwise) is transferred to the object ball. The spin generated by the object ball causes it to be “thrown” to the direction opposite the spin on the cue ball.

One thing that makes english difficult is that it is hard to estimate the amount of deflection that you will get on the cue ball. Only with enough experience will you be able to make a good estimate. Players should concentrate on the centered shot and have it mastered before attempting to integrate English shots into their repertoire. Like all shots and techniques, you will need time and patience to develop your style and become successful at completing these shots.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, still having the Free Adsense Sites for instant download