Though it is not known exactly when or where the sport originated, it has been believed that the earliest form was from France. It was a version like that of an indoor lawn game similar to croquet. the object of the game was to push a ball through a croquet-like wicket to hit a peg, similar to the stake in croquet. Players used a club-like stick, which became known as the “mace”.

During the early 19th century, American craftsmen began to make tables. Billiard tables originally had flat vertical walls for rails, and their only function was to keep the balls from falling off the table. The rails resembled river banks, and were even used to be called banks. When players found out that the balls would bounce off the rails, they began to deliberately aiming at the banks. That was the invention of the “bank shot”. The “bank shot” is were a ball is aimed, and shot at the wall as part of a shot.Billiards became associated with pool parlors in large cities. The word “pool” at the time meant gambling, but it was soon attached to the American form of pocket billiards and is still commonly known as pool.

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As the years passed, the sport became more popular and more developed. Many variations of the game were created and many techniques developed and mastered. In America, billiards, or pool as we know it, was becoming an up and coming sport. Originally, due to the extreme cost of making the table, it was considered to be a rich man’s sport. As other ways to manufacture tables became known, along with use of different materials, the tables became more affordable to a wider population and the popularity increased dramatically.

The most popular form of pool, eight ball, was invented in the early 1900’s. This was then followed by nine ball and cut throat. Three of the most common forms of the game known. It’s suspicious and unknown origin may always be a mystery to us as we continue to expand on game variations, development, technique and technology. It is a sport and a leisure that is here to stay. Even today, though we already have our standard variations of the game, we see different styles and approaches arrise continuously. Professionals are always eager to take the next step and be the first to make a newly developed shot or master their own personally created technique.

There’s a lot to understand about Pool Billiards. We were able to provide you with some of the facts above, but there is still plenty more to write about in subsequent articles.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his new GVO affiliate site: GVO

Let’s start by saying any shot that is not performed by a straight on centered approach will be difficult to master, not to mention hard to control. A shot that is made by aiming at any point other than the center of the cue, will cause the cue ball to be projected with a spin on it. Using backspin on your shot causes the cue ball to draw away from the object ball and return towards you upon contact with the object ball. It is normally done by hitting the cue ball below center. This is a difficult shot to master because hitting the cue ball below center normally creates a “miscue” specially for beginner players. Many players will “jump” the ball until they master this technique.

The distance the cue ball has to travel before impact with the object ball is a major consideration when using backspin. Another factor is the type of cloth on the table. Smoother cloths will have less friction thus allowing the cue ball more momentum to draw back as opposed to a rougher type of cloth were friction will hinder the momentum of the cue ball a lot more. Most higher priced tables are constructed with a smoother cloth, thus enabling players to apply backspin and English efficiently.

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As the distance between the object ball and the cue ball increases, you will need to put more backspin on the cue ball As stated above, the cloth on the table surface may cause friction and reduce the speed of the balls and in turn, reduce the backspin. This is where the difficulty of the back spin comes into play. Many players find it very difficult to draw the cue ball at longer distances mostly because there is not enough back spin on the cue ball.

Backspin is a great tool to master when learning your techniques as a newer player. You will find this technique advantageous in many situations and it will increase your over-all game. The primary use of backspin is to avoid scratching when normally the cue would follow through on a shot. Placing backspin on the ball will allow you to make the shot and remain in control of the game. It will allow you to “set up” your next shot with a better leave than if you were to make a follow through shot. Many players apply backspin to their shots to create a good lay of the ball in preparation for their next shot.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his new GVO affiliate site: GVO

When racking for an 8-ball game, set the rack on the table and place the one ball in the top corner. Place two balls beneath the one ball. In eight-ball, fifteen object balls are used. Standardized rules state that:

* The 8 ball must be in the center of the rack (the second ball in the three balls wide row).

* The first ball (traditionally but not mandatorily the 1 ball) must be placed at the apex position (front of the rack and so the center of that ball is directly over the table’s foot spot).

* The two corner balls must be a stripe and a solid. In theory, this pattern allows for a more equal chance of sinking both a solid and a stripe because the two corner balls are the most likely balls to be pocketed on the break.

* All balls other than the 8 ball are placed at random, but in conformance with the preceding corner ball rule.

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* The balls should be pressed tightly together without gaps, as this allows the best break possible.

In amateur eight-ball play a racking variant that is often followed is:

* The outer edges of the triangle must be in the pattern of solid, stripe, solid, stripe, etc. (resulting in the two corner balls being either both stripes or both solids).

* Sometimes, the balls must be placed in numeric order from the top of the triangle down and from left to right, i.e., the 1 on the foot spot, followed by the 2 then 3 in the second row, and so on. This always results in the corner balls of the rack being both stripes (the 11 and 15, respectively).

The game of nine-ball has a totally different system of racking since you are only playing with nine balls. While you may use the same rack that you do in eight-ball, they do sell special racks for nine-ball. The balls are racked in the shape of a diamond. Be sure to place the one ball at the upper point and the nine in the middle. Some players (most often amateurs) place the balls in numeric order but for the 9 ball; from the top of the triangle down and from left to right, i.e., the 1 on the foot spot, followed by the 2 then 3 in the second row, and so on. However, all balls other than the 1 and 9 may be randomly placed.

Regardless of what variation of the game you are racking for, it is always best to make sure it is a “tight rack”. This refers to the spacing between the balls. Ideally, you would want the least amount of space. Now, be sure to roll the rack so that the 1 ball is exactly in the middle of the pool table “dot” on the billiard (pool) table. Use all eight of your fingers–not your thumbs–and push on the back roll of balls, forcing them tight in the 8-ball rack and making sure that the 1 ball is placed in the middle of the pool table “dot.” This is very important, since it is difficult for your opponent to make a ball on the break if he’s shooting at a “tight rack.”

Don’t limit yourself by refusing to learn the details about Pool Billiards. The more you know, the easier it will be to focus on what’s important.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his new GVO affiliate site: GVO

First of all, take caution when using this term. A push-out is very different from a push-shot. Be sure to familiarize yourself with the terms and make sure you are referring to the correct thing. A push shot refers to a type of foul committed during play, where as a push out is a technique used during the game.

At pool, a push shot involves a very special kind of stroke and is played when the cue ball is frozen to the object ball. This stroke is a foul. (At pool it is legal to shoot towards a ball the cue ball is frozen to, assuming no other foul, and with a normal stroke.) In a push shot, the tip is brought slowly, slowly, very slowly up to the cue ball until it is just touching or about to touch, and then the tip is accelerated for the shot.

There are two examples of when a push-shot is used. The first is when a ball is frozen to the rail close to a corner pocket. The cue ball is frozen to the object ball and straight out from the rail. The shot is straight towards the object ball, with the tip placed on the equator of the cue ball with lots of side away from the pocket. Once very gentle contact of tip-to-ball is made the tip is gradually pushed forward and the object ball sort of slips out from behind the cue ball and goes straight into the near pocket.

I trust that what you’ve read so far has been informative. The following section should go a long way toward clearing up any uncertainty that may remain.

The second example is when the cue ball is on the foot spot, and an object ball is frozen as if it had been spotted; both are on the foot string. A desirable object ball is in the jaws of one of the foot pockets. A legal way to pocket the hung ball is to point the cue stick at a point on the foot rail half way between the center of the rail and the target pocket, and shoot a normal center ball stroke. An illegal push shot is to elevate the butt of the stick to about 45 degrees, address the cue ball for extreme follow, and shoot a gradual push shot. In this case the cue ball will nearly ignore the object ball, and go close to the line of aim, rather than the double “angle” of the first (legal) method.

So as not to get too confused, try to keep in mind that a “push out” ismost commonly used when playing nine-ball. The player who shoots the shot immediately after a legal break may play a push out in an attempt to move the cue ball into a better position for the option that follows. On a push out, the cue ball is not required to contact any object ball nor any rail, but all other foul rules still apply. The player must announce the intention of playing a push out before the shot, or the shot is considered to be a normal shot. Any ball pocketed on a push out does not count and remains pocketed except the 9-ball. Following a legal push out, the incoming player is permitted to shoot from that position or to pass the shot back to the player who pushed out. A push out is not considered to be a foul as long as no rule is violated.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit his new GVO affiliate site: GVO

As a beginning billiards player, most of you might only be using cue sticks provided by the billiards place where you play. However, if you want to really improve your game you need to have your own cue so you won’t have the problem of having to adjust to the length of the cue or the weight of the cue or the diameter of the cue tip. It is important to take note (while you still don’t have a cue stick) the type of cue that you feel most comfortable with. Experiment with different cue sticks. Examine the weight, the length and the diameter of the tip. After you’ve decided on what is most comfortable to you then you are ready to buy one.

Knowledge can give you a real advantage. To make sure you’re fully informed about Pool Billiards, keep reading.

There are some points to consider when shopping for your cue. First, make sure that the cue stick is straight and not crooked. Although most of the production cues are not crooked, it’s always good to check just in case. You can do this by rolling the cue stick on a flat surface, if it is crooked then you will notice it right away. Another way of looking at the stick is to look at the butt end of the cue while pointing the other end downwards then roll it a few times and you should be able to notice if it is crooked or not. Second, the weight of the cue stick. Typically, a cue stick weighs between 18 to 21 ounzes. Find out what weight is comfortable for you and stick with it. Third, the length of the cue stick should be dependent the length of your arm. Longer arms, longer stick. The length of production cues typically starts at 57 inches.

If you would like to customize it a bit, getting a two-part cue will add about $30 to your price. You can go further and add on leather grips and some decorations. Rule of thumb is that if you pay more than $100 for a cue stick, you are paying for brand and ornamentation, not so much quality. A good tip is probably more important than the cue. Shun a cue that’s more than two parts, has a screw-on tip, is painted in festive colors, or is made in Taiwan. Made in Japan is OK, the Adam line, made there, is one of the best. Get the best tips you can, the return on the money you spend is greater there than anywhere else. Seek good construction over great looks. Be sure to compare the cue sticks before choosing the one that catches your eye. Feel comfortable with the weight and the length. You will be using this stick for years to come, so be sure your investment is just right for your style of playing.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit this new site for my swedish customers: Billigt Webbhotell – from SEK 10:- per month!

Many amateurs are hesitant to use the bridge mainly because they don’t know the proper way to do so. Going through the following steps will take away that worry and help your game in the long run. Taking care not to hit any surrounding balls, carefully place the bridge on the table approximately 5 inches away from the cue ball. Now place the cue in the slot (usually 3 or 4 available) that will allow you to strike the cue ball as level as possible and at the location you desire.

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Once you have found the slot you would like to use, place the bridge flat on the table if you can and hold it down with one hand. Now, grasp your cue toward the end, leaving the tip to be supported by the bridge. Strike the cue ball with a straight, even stroke and immediately lift the bridge off the table. You have now completed a successful bridge shot.
As with the rest of the game, this will take some time to get used to. Parctice different shots and angels and become comfortable using the bridge. It will be an important part of your game as you develop.

Many aficionados and most professionals employ the bridge whenever the intended shot so requires. Some players, especially current or former snooker players, use a screw-on cue butt extension instead of or in addition to the mechanical bridge. It is suggested that once you have the basic game down pat, that you begin to experiment with additional equipment such as this. The sooner you become familiar with it, the more proficient you will become and you will progress as a player. Practice with the mechanical bridge until you feel you are comfortable enough to apply it to your every-day game playing. You will learn that the time spent on practicing with the techniques and angles will not have been time wasted, but will aid your game immensely.

Of course, it’s impossible to put everything about Pool Billiards into just one article. But you can’t deny that you’ve just added to your understanding about Pool Billiards, and that’s time well spent.

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By Anders Eriksson, who just launched this great product..
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Obviously, one of the major pieces of equipment needed to play pool is the set of balls. Without them, there would be no game! The balls are designed specifically for the game and coincide with the physics involved in overall play. As you read, you will find out how the balls are made, what materials are used, regulation weights and more. You will soon find that it is not just an ordinary orb placed on the table, and that much design and engineering is involved.

The earliest balls were made of wood clay. These were used for years until the use of ivory came into play. Ivory balls were short lived. By the 1800’s, millions of elephants were being slaughtered to obtain the ivory used to make the balls as well as many other items. Only eight balls could be made from one elephant! Seeing this as unfit, a new material was sought after.

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A composition material was then invented, called cellulose nitrate. It was later commercially branded Celluloid, also known as the first industrial plastic to be marketed. Thought to be a great invention for making the balls, the material was soon not accepted as it caused the balls to occasionally explode, making these plastic billiard balls impractical. The invention of this material served many other useful purposes as the use of plastic became more accepted, but as for the pool game, it was unacceptable.

Other compounds were experimented with until the perfect material had been found. Today’s balls are cast from phenolic resin. This material is resistant to chipping and cracking and has become an industry standard. It is the only ball material used today in play by professionals. There are lower grade balls made of polyester, but use of these result in shorter ball and cloth life.

The balls we commonly see today are made of resin and are regulated by weight and color. The standard ball has a weight of 5.5 to 6 oz. with the cue ball at a standard 6 oz. The balls are colored and grouped into solids and stripes and numbered accordingly. Custom balls are available offering an assortment of colors and markings and are often used in trick shooting to add visual appeal.

Take time to consider the points presented above. What you learn may help you overcome your hesitation to take action.

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On a jump shot, your cue ball jumps at an angle equal to the angle at which it is struck. Another words the higher your cue stick the higher the jump angle. The harder you shoot, the longer the jump. The jump stroke must be shot with a very loose back arm grip. This allows the cue stick to get out of the way of the ball so you don’t “trap” the ball as it’s trying the jump. It is a foul if a player strikes the cue ball below center (”digs under” it) and intentionally causes it to rise off the bed of the table in an effort to clear an obstructing ball. Such jumping action may occasionally occur accidentally, and such “jumps” are not to be considered fouls on their face; they may still be ruled foul strokes, if for example, the ferrule or cue shaft makes contact with the cue ball in the course of the shot.

Unless otherwise stated in rules for a specific game it is legal to cause the cue ball to rise off the bed of the table by elevating the cue stick on the shot, and forcing the cue ball to rebound from the bed of the table. Any miscue when executing a jump shot is a foul.

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Everyone like to be a big shot, and nothing makes you look cooler than executing a proper billiard and pool jump shot technique and pocketing the intended object ball that nobody thought you could get at. Though this may be the case, you should remember to consider and assess all other options and angles for shot options first. If you use the jump shot when you don’t really need to, your opponent and other spectators may regard you as a showboat and may lose existing respect for your game.
Jump shots are not easy to make, and are even harder to control. It will take you a lot of practice, but more so, a lot of patience to master your jump shot. Beginners should start with a jump shot that is not of great height. Get the technique down then try jumping a full ball. To jump a full ball from one ball away you’ll need to elevate to 85 degrees or more. The only way to become proficient at this technique is to develop your own style and perfect it.

So now you know a little bit about Pool Billiards. Even if you don’t know everything, you’ve done something worthwhile: you’ve expanded your knowledge.

About the Author
Have you visited Anders’ latest site for adsense publishers? Download new fresh sites in this all new site, called Adsense Ready Websites

After spending days upon days and dollars upon dollars for your pool table, you should know how to care for it so it will last a life time. Not maintaining the table will affect your overall game and cost you a bundle in needed repairs. Take some small and simple steps to avoid having to pay for repairs on your investment.

If you have a new table, the cloth may interact with the roll of the balls for the break in period. This is completely normal, but to speed up the break-in process, it helps by brushing the cloth as frequently as possible. The table, new or used, should be brushed before and after every game played. Be sure to always brush the cloth in the same direction and never use circular motions. The surface may be vacuumed if necessary, again, always in the same direction. To avoid exposure to humidity, spills and other hazards, it is recommended that you cover the table when not in use.

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Avoid excessive ball build up or storage in the pockets of your table. The balls will wear out the cloth around the pockets if they cannot drop freely inside. Stored balls for lengthy periods may also stretch the pockets depending on what material they are made from. If your table was made with leather used to create the pockets, ball build up will deffinitely affect the shape of the pockets over time. This may not happen so much if the material is weaved or made of mesh, but it is always a good idea not to let the balls build up regardless of the material used.

If your table has a natural wood finish, it should be dusted and cleaned frequently. Your investment may be for entertainment, but it is also a piece of furniture and a possible heirloom. Wood finishes can be restored by using a non-residue forming dusting agent, such as lemon oil. Never use a cleaner that contains ammonia as it can chemically damage the finish. Though it is possible to re-finish the wood if staining occurs, it is best to prevent that as much as possible. Taking general care of the wood on the rails will lengthen the life of the table and reduce the possible cost of repairs in the future. Considering the cost of your investment, it is wise to care for it in a way that will allow you to enjoy it for years to come.

If you have your table stored in a recreation room where food and drinks will be present, try to encourage the use of coasters. Never set a can, glass or bottle on any part of the table. The moisture will cause damage and will also leave stains. A no food or drink policy is often in place at local pool halls, and they are never allowed near tournament tables. One final thing to remember, do not sit or stand on any part of the table. Aside from possibly injuring yourself, you will affect the table leverage and the balls will not travle as they should. Always keep unnecessary weight off of the table, both during play and not.

Knowing enough about Pool Billiards to make solid, informed choices cuts down on the fear factor. If you apply what you’ve just learned about Pool Billiards, you should have nothing to worry about.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit my latest venture: GVO to claim your $1 trial membership!

As a beginning billiards player, most of you might only be using cue sticks provided by the billiards place where you play. However, if you want to really improve your game you need to have your own cue so you won’t have the problem of having to adjust to the length of the cue or the weight of the cue or the diameter of the cue tip. It is important to take note (while you still don’t have a cue stick) the type of cue that you feel most comfortable with. Experiment with different cue sticks. Examine the weight, the length and the diameter of the tip. After you’ve decided on what is most comfortable to you then you are ready to buy one.

If you don’t have accurate details regarding Pool Billiards, then you might make a bad choice on the subject. Don’t let that happen: keep reading.

There are some points to consider when shopping for your cue. First, make sure that the cue stick is straight and not crooked. Although most of the production cues are not crooked, it’s always good to check just in case. You can do this by rolling the cue stick on a flat surface, if it is crooked then you will notice it right away. Another way of looking at the stick is to look at the butt end of the cue while pointing the other end downwards then roll it a few times and you should be able to notice if it is crooked or not. Second, the weight of the cue stick. Typically, a cue stick weighs between 18 to 21 ounzes. Find out what weight is comfortable for you and stick with it. Third, the length of the cue stick should be dependent the length of your arm. Longer arms, longer stick. The length of production cues typically starts at 57 inches.

If you would like to customize it a bit, getting a two-part cue will add about $30 to your price. You can go further and add on leather grips and some decorations. Rule of thumb is that if you pay more than $100 for a cue stick, you are paying for brand and ornamentation, not so much quality. A good tip is probably more important than the cue. Shun a cue that’s more than two parts, has a screw-on tip, is painted in festive colors, or is made in Taiwan. Made in Japan is OK, the Adam line, made there, is one of the best. Get the best tips you can, the return on the money you spend is greater there than anywhere else. Seek good construction over great looks. Be sure to compare the cue sticks before choosing the one that catches your eye. Feel comfortable with the weight and the length. You will be using this stick for years to come, so be sure your investment is just right for your style of playing.

When word gets around about your command of Pool Billiards facts, others who need to know about Pool Billiards will start to actively seek you out.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, feel free to visit my latest venture: GVO to claim your $1 trial membership!